Monstera care guide

Monstera is the big, split-leaf plant everyone wants. It is not hard to grow. It does need room, a bright spot, and something to climb.

Light

Give monstera bright, indirect light. A spot near an east window or a few feet back from a south or west window works well.

Light decides whether leaves split. In low light, new leaves stay small and solid. Hot afternoon sun through glass burns the leaves.

Water

Water when the top 5 cm (2 in) of soil is dry. Water slowly until it drains out the bottom, then empty the saucer.

In summer that is often once a week. In winter it may be every two to three weeks. Read how to tell if a houseplant is overwatered or underwatered.

Soil and potting

Monstera roots want air. Mix potting soil with orchid bark and perlite, about one third each.

Repot every one to two years in spring, one pot size up. This is also the time to add a moss pole or a stake. See how to repot a houseplant step by step.

Support

Monstera is a climber. In the wild it grows up tree trunks. Indoors, a moss pole or a sturdy stake keeps it upright and helps it grow bigger leaves.

Tie the main stem loosely to the pole with soft plant ties. Tuck the long brown aerial roots against the pole or into the soil. Cutting a few off does no harm.

Humidity and temperature

Average room air is fine. Higher humidity helps new leaves unfurl without tearing. Keep the plant away from heating vents and cold drafts.

Feeding

Feed monthly in spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer. Skip it in fall and winter.

Pruning

Cut off yellow or damaged leaves at the base of the leaf stem. To control height, cut the main stem just above a node. A new shoot grows from below the cut.

Propagation

Every cutting needs a node, the bump on the stem where a leaf and an aerial root grow. A leaf with no node never grows a new plant.

Cut 2 cm (1 in) below a node. Root it in water or damp sphagnum moss. Roots appear in two to four weeks. Pot it once the roots are 5 to 8 cm (2 to 3 in) long.

Problems

What you see	Most likely cause
Leaves not splitting	Not enough light, or the plant is still young
Yellow lower leaves, wet soil	Too much water
Brown crispy edges	Dry soil or very dry air
Brown patches in the middle of leaves	Sunburn
Leaning, floppy stems	Needs support
Drops of water on leaf tips	Guttation, normal after watering

Pests

Watch for spider mites, thrips, and mealybugs, mostly on new leaves. Wipe the leaves now and then so you notice problems early. Fungus gnats mean the soil stays wet too long. Read how to get rid of fungus gnats in houseplants.

Pet safety

Monstera is toxic to cats and dogs. Chewing the leaves irritates the mouth and can cause drooling and vomiting.

Varieties

• ‘Thai Constellation’ has creamy speckles all over the leaves.
• ‘Albo Variegata’ has bold white sections and costs much more.
• Monstera adansonii is a different species, with smaller leaves full of holes.

In my house

My monstera spends the summer outside, the same as my snake plants. The trouble is that it is heavy. Sometimes I do not get it into the shade right away, and the leaves go brown and shrivel in the direct sun. Do not do this. Put it in the shade the day it goes outside.